How I Fit a Roll-Up Tonneau Cover to My M416 Trailer
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An M416 tub is great for hauling gear, but an open tub fills up with rain, dust and leaves. A tonneau cover fixes that. The catch is that these old tubs are rarely straight, and the rounded rolled edge gives a cover nothing flat to clamp to. Here's how I solved both problems with strut channel and a Ford Ranger roll-up cover.

Watch the build
What you'll need
1-5/8" strut channel (trolley track): two 6 ft (72") lengths for the sides and one 4 ft length for the front, cut to about 45-1/2" so it fits between the side channels. Measure your tub before cutting.
13 stainless steel 1/4" bolts, nuts and body washers: 5 per side and 3 across the front. 5/16" bolts also work.
Exterior caulk: a flexible, UV-resistant, waterproof sealant.
A ratchet strap to pull the tub sides straight.
A roll-up tonneau cover for a 1993–2011 Ford Ranger Flareside/Splash with the 6 ft (73") bed. I used the Perfit Liner (SKU PerfitLinerNR008). It's often out of stock, so check our website at bckrd.com for the latest info on how to purchase the cover.
Tools: a drill and 1/4" bit, wrenches, and a saw or grinder to cut the channel.
Step 1: Take off the tent-rack crossbars
If you have a rooftop-tent rack, remove its crossbars first. The tub sides need to be able to move in the next step.

Step 2: Pull the sides straight and bolt in the channel
Most M416 tubs are warped, and mine was too. I ran a ratchet strap across the top of the tub to pull the two sides toward each other. Then I bolted a 6 ft strut channel to the inside of each side wall with five 1/4" stainless bolts spaced 12" apart, tightening a little at a time and snugging the strap as I went. The front channel fits between the two side channels and takes three bolts.
The channel's opening faces inward, and its top face sits flush with the original rolled edge. That gives you a flat, straight frame all the way around. On my trailer it measures 72.83" × 49-3/4".




Step 3: Seal the gap
Even with the channel bolted tight, the old rounded edge won't line up perfectly. I filled the gap between the rolled edge and the new flat edge with exterior caulk to keep water and dirt from collecting there.
Step 4: Choose the right cover
This is the tricky part. The cover that fits is a soft roll-up made for a 1993–2011 Ford Ranger Flareside/Splash with the 6 ft (73") bed. Measure your frame before you buy. Mine is 72.83" long and 49-3/4" wide, and the 73" cover fits.



It has to be a roll-up or slide cover. A tri-fold folds its panels upward, and on my trailer they hit the tent-rack legs, which lean inward. A tri-fold only works if your rack legs stand upright. A slide cover also works, but it costs more.

Step 5: Clamp the cover on
The cover's side rails clamp to the strut channel the same way they would clamp to a truck bed rail.



You'll need a tailgate
To release the cover, you pull a strap that you can only reach with the tailgate open. My trailer came with a tailgate already fitted, so I didn't build it myself. If yours doesn't have one, adding one comes first. I'll cover how M416 owners usually do that in a separate post.
What I'd do differently
The whole install took me about 4 hours, including working out the plan. Next time I'd look at tent-rack brackets with upright legs. With my inward-leaning legs, rolling the cover back is more awkward than it needs to be.
See you out there. Going nowhere slowly.




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